Volkswagen Polo polo 1.0 using loads of fuel

Car: Volkswagen Polo
Variant: 1.0l
Model Year: 1995
Categories: Running Rough, Starting & Power Loss
hi ,hope you are all well!,
i own a 1.0 l single point injection polo ,
it is doing about 20 to the gallon!!!!,
i have replaced plugs and lambda sensor, air filter etc.
to no avail any ideas people??,
i have been advised it may be the temperature sender but if i unplug this while car is running the idle speed drops so i am assuming it is ok,
the plugs are a nice brown just about right and there are no leaks anywhere ,the only other symptom is it is a bit gutlesss lately,no warning lights on at all.engine temp is 88/90 and it warms up ok(new stat).
it has done about 90,000 and starts and appears to run fine,,,i`m lost,
hhhheeeelllpppp!
Posted: Nov 14, 2009 (14 years ago)
Check timing , compression test .
Posted Nov 14, 2009 (14 years ago)
i thought the timing could not be adjusted on the aev series engine??
Posted Nov 14, 2009 (14 years ago)
sorry i posted that question as a solution,,
Posted Nov 14, 2009 (14 years ago)
Any idea when the timing belt was last replaced ? Could have jumped ?
Posted Nov 14, 2009 (14 years ago)
63000 last replaced and water pump
Posted Nov 14, 2009 (14 years ago)
Not a solution really.
I have similar problems with my son's Civic. It has been mentioned to me that lack of power and huge fuel consumption are classic signs of a blocked exhaust, usually at the Cat.
I have not had any recommendations on how to verify the fault without either a visual inspection,swapping it out, or using tools I don't have.
Ian
Posted Nov 16, 2009 (14 years ago)
right, think i have solved the problem,as i mentioned i did change the lambda sensor .also the combined tenperature sender unit ,,it sends signals to both the guage and the ecu however i think theese may have been red herrings??,
what i found was that the vacum air temperature valve in the air filter housing (it has two pipes on it one from inlet manifold ,one to the cold or warm air intake valve in the intake pipe before the air filter housing)this appeared to be "letting by "when the car was at operating temperature ,so to test the theory i bypassed the valve alltogether thus stopping any vacum leak and setting the air intake to take only warm air from the exhaust manifold,,
the result the engine now warms far quicker ,mpg is about right (i think) but no comprehensive readings have been taken but after a 20 mile hard drive (usually about a gallon) the fuel guage only moved about the width of the needle,
i know these results are hit and miss as i changed two components before the final result but maybe this will help anyone else who is struggling,,just goes to show the best tools in the box are your eyes and ears!!,
,does anyone know where i can get a new valve searched net but no results??.
many thanks for everyones help,
best regards,
mark.
Posted Nov 16, 2009 (14 years ago)
allegedly the the most common sign of a naff cat is the smell of rotten eggs from the exhaust when hot,,,,
no tools required but don`t sniff it for too long its dangerous stuff!!,
let us know how you fare with the civic if i can help i will.used to have one of those, a 1.5 gti ,wish i never sold it ,it was vv quick but rotten!!.
Posted Nov 16, 2009 (14 years ago)
Don't go condemning cat because of egg smell, other possiblities and causes i.e


ROTTEN EGG SMELL FROM CATALYTIC CONVERTER


The sulphur smell from the exhaust, is actually caused by running the engine/cat convertor slightly lean for long periods and then running under a rich condition (ie going up a hill under heavy load) This is when the sulphur smell (rotten egg) is produced.


Under relatively lean conditions, the sulphur found in gasoline is converted to sulphur trioxide, then during the rich running condition the sulfur trioxide is converted into hydrogen sulphide (rotten egg smell) within the catalytic converter.


Audi of America issued a service bulletin Group 24, #92-04 which detailed this problem. They list the cause as : the gasoline sulphur content and the characteristic of catalytic convertor to store sulphur compounds and release them during rich engine running conditions.


Switching gasoline brands may help. The Oxygen sensor may also need to be replaced to correct a fuel injection mixture problem

Posted Nov 16, 2009 (14 years ago)
oh,,,,ok.
Posted Nov 16, 2009 (14 years ago)
Off topic, I Know, but thanks anyway ;-)
O2 sensor OK'd by garage.
Posted Nov 17, 2009 (14 years ago)

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