You can do most of this yourself,
Air flow meter,there's a rubber ring in the ducting just after the AFM,make sure it's there and good condition.
Next,the small bore rubber tubes that run to the turbo boost pressure sensor,that's mounted up the right near the battery/ecu,
check them for splits/cracks and clear,no obstructions,
I usually just fit new if there's any doubt,
and while your in there a temporary bypass the turbo boost pressure sensor by connecting the two rubber pipes to each other will rule out,or in a turbo boost pressure sensor and give full boost almost instantly.
And check the turbo dump valve for operation.
After this it's really the time for live data to recreate the fault,
specifically the turbo pressure,the injector correction values,fuel prwessure............
it does go on a bit.
But if it was here now after the first checks listed
I'd be looking at the rail pressure.
That's most likely your grey thing and is critical to correct fueling,
though faults in this usually show up as a non start.
Oh and check the ECU software is the most up to date.
Good luck,these,as you now know can be a pain.
Most of the problems I've come across with these is down to shorts in the wiring harness.areal pain!!!
Posted May 16, 2014 (10 years ago)