Vauxhall Corsa f on dash

Car: Vauxhall Corsa
Variant: 1.2 sxi semituto
Model Year: 2002
Categories: Running Rough, Starting & Power Loss
my corsa wont start f flashing on dash had the diagnostic report
fault codes
p1120-8
p1722-0
u2107-4
p1703-4
p1560-6
p0725-4
p0505-4
p1895-4
p1896-4
u2105-4
before this the would start and drive perfect.please if any one has any ideas of were I should start from 07886832688
Posted: Feb 12, 2014 (10 years ago)
Your list of codes lean towards a fault in communication between your engine management computer and your transmission management computer. Couple of possibilities. You also have a charging system fault with a battery voltage out of range fault. That may be from an alternator regulator problem which in turn could have caused the communication fault for your ECM/TCMs. First thing i would do is get eyeball on both ECM and TCM and check them for water ingress at multi plug area. Then test your CAN bus lines. If they seem ok there a possibility unwanted AC voltage may have fried one or both of your brains!
Posted Feb 13, 2014 (10 years ago)
Possibly a gearbox issue with your selector unit,you could try moving the gearshift and turning the key see if anything happens,but really requires further checking looking at live data.
Posted Feb 13, 2014 (10 years ago)
problem described is worn brushes on the clutch actuator motor, had the same issue, had replaced wheel speed sensor and the clutch :no joy
checking prices for potential fix from main stealers offered repair prices ranging from 700- 2500 and couldnt guarantee the result.
Decided to attempt myself: after a lot of investigation stripping down control unit and all actuator motors (three in total) 1)clutch actuator 2) gear selector 3)gear position control
all seemed relatively good
comparing each of the bosch motor against each other with the motor housing removed and checking fo play between the brushes and rotor revealed a slight gap.
clutch control motor is the lowest mounted motor of the three
removal :
undo torx bolts located on the mounting bracket and disconnect the clutch fluid pipe and electrical connections
remove the clutch motor
undo torx bolts on the motor housing and pull housing away from motor (can feel sticky to remove due to magnetism and top bearing seating)
two plastic brush retainer protrude upward (unfortunately these need to be snapped of at the base as a circular plate is riveted into place) keep these as they will be needed later
carefully bend back two copper prongs of the internal brush sleeve and extract the brush
note (the brushes are connected via a coil configuration to the electrical supply) dont attempt to remove the coil
snip the wire close to the brush
measure the brushes as new brushes will have be of the same dimension
for brushes of the size required can be bought for only a few euro
new brushes: if a contact plate is attached to the new brushes snip this off close to the contact plate
solder the wire on the new brush to the wire protruding from the coil on the motor (ensuring spring is in position around the wire
insert into the sleeve)
bend copper prongs back into position to hold spring
replace the plastic tabs snapped off earlier by positioning in place and plastic welding them at the base using a soldering iron ( the integrity of strength of the plastic weld is not an issue so long as the plastic tab are held firmly in place until the motor housing is replaced)
refit torx screws to housing
and refit motor car
jobs a goodun
Posted Mar 1, 2014 (10 years ago)
Forgot to mention you will need to bleed clutch after using op-com or tech 2
may need to do clutch point adaptation and gear setup as well (depends whether the gear setup and clutch are out of sync) using op-com or tech 2
Posted Mar 3, 2014 (10 years ago)

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