Peugeot 206 ignition wiring diagram for peugeot 206 ???

Yes I have access to both Auto data and Peugeot workshop diagrams.
Bad news is they are awkward to read for the novice.
Peugeot do not issue colour coded wires,
they're tagged with numbers,
For example wire number 1150 is the coil power feed 12V from the multifunction relay.
So even if I could send you the diagrams I doubt they'd be much help.
You posted a similar problem before,
yes?
Best help would be check for power at the coils wire 1150,
and injector wire terminal #1,
or probe either terminal on the injector for 12V,
Key on engine off,
if there's 12V at these points the multifunction relay IS powering up.
But again I ask what are the symptoms????
As to a website try "servicebox Peugeot"
But you do have to pay for it.

Thanks for getting back to me.
I have run a diagnostics test on the car and the following 8 fault codes have been identified on the engine. They all relate to open circuits/to ground on the 4 injectors, coil 1+2, coil 2+4 and shorts on the upstream and downstream O2 sensors.
P0135 P0141 P0351 P0352 P0201 P0204 P0203 P0204

I'm hoping this is going to be a an issue in the wiring loom, does it sound like a bad earth or +/- touching somewhere.......What do you think, Once again Many Thanks for your help.

First off ignore the p01350141 codes
it's just a heater in the o2 circuit to speed it up to operating temp,
o2 sensor is working just fine as no actual o2 sensor output codes set.
as to the rest you have both coil and injector codes,
both these have a common power source,
this comes from the engine management multifunction relay terminal #4 wire number 1320.
this splits and goes to both coil terminal #4 and all injectors.
So if it were here I'd unplug the coil connector and key on engine off load test at terminal#4,
and by load test I mean not with a volt meter an actual load.
simplest way is with a set of jump wire and an indicator bulb connect a wire TO THE BACK OF THE CONNECTOR,
DON'T PUSH ANYTHING INTO THE CONNEDTOR MOUTH.
then to the bulb then ground.
the bulb should light up brightly.
if not then chase the wire back to the multi plug on the relay and repeat the test there,
again looking for a bight lit bulb.
Same test at the injector connector,
wire number should be cylinder #4 is 1211/1212,
bulb jumper wire test it again key on engine off and the bulb should glow brightly,
as bright as a brake lamp.
Oh and that wire is for injector #4 which on a Pug the cylinder the furthest away from the gearbox.
Now when load testing with the jumper wires/bulb if it does light up wiggle the wire harness.
Don't play with it,
stress the **** by pulling/pushing it to see if the bulb flickers or goes out.
So to recap,
bulb connected to two wires,
mine has croccy clips on either end,
stick a pin down the rear of the coil connector #4 pin and connect the test lamp to that and the other wire to ground and key on engine off.
bulb should glow bright and not flicker when the wire harness is pulled/pushed/strained.
And now the good news,
rule of thumb for electrical faults is four hours to find the fault,
Four mins' to fix the fault.
Good hunting.
OR,
if your flush check out you tube for the LOAD PRO TESTING LEADS.
Worth every penny I spent on them,
intended for exactly this situation.
Sod this I'm typed out,
Repost if your successful.

Thanks 1/4 drive will try this.

Now for a really strange one !!

We worked on the car yesterday and found something a bit odd we cant figure it out.
After taking out the coil, Carb and fuel rack we exposed the majority of the wiring going from the battery and Fuse relay box (BM34) to the ECU across the other side of the engine bay. All the wiring appeared to be in good order and we couldn't see any signs of damage etc we even carried out continuity tests with a multi meter on the majority of the wires all seemed fine;

All of a sudden as we were just about to start putting everything back together one of the injectors still connected to the fuel rack gave out a large spurt of fuel across the engine bay (it was still disconnected at this stage). We realised that the battery was still connected so made it safe and put everything back where it should be.

We had a brew and decided that the fuel pump must be kicking in every now and again. We decided to concentrate on the BM34 fuse relay unit next to the battery. An initial visual inspection came up with nothing all fuses appeared OK there was no blistering to the Printed Circuit board etc; we did notice on the underisde of the PCB a solder holding one of the relays legs in had dried out slightly so we cleaned it up and re-soldered it.

We hooked it back up to the battery and started to have a wigggle of wires. (Looking at the BM34 from above) The big connector to the left with multiple wires going into it was wiggled in and out and every now and again you could here relays clicking about twice during the whole wiggling session we heard the fuel pump from the fuel tank whir into life for a slight second.

After another brew !! we thought to ourselves is there a problem with this connector ....This is were it gets really weird !

With the battery connected using a multimeter we checked each individual pin of the large connector. After checking connections and continuity all seemed fine. We disconnected the connector and then checked the female side of the connector stuck on the PCB, it's then we noticed the fourth pin down on the left hand side was showing 10-11V (battery was low as well) but we remembered that when connected we weren't getting a reading off the top of the connecter. Just so we thought we weren't going mad we reconnected the plug and tested it, sure enough no Voltage reading when tested, take the plug off and test the pin it showed voltage. What we did then was we took the corresponding wire out of the connecter (it was a grey wire four down) and connected it directly to the pin we put a multimeter onto it and sure enough NO voltage reading, with the multimeter probe still at the base of the tiny pin we carefully pulled the grey wire off the pin and sure enough the multimeter was showing 10-11 volts. ..??? We are stumped with this one !!
Looking at the top of the connector, the fourth wire down on the left hand side is a grey wire chasing this back through the wiring loom we think it tracks back to the ecu, I'm starting to think of just changing the whole BM34 board and see were we go. Sorry it's long winded but it's a bloody weird one !! Once again Many Thanks for any input. Gaz.

almost wasted time!
I can not stress enough.
DON'T USE A MULTIMETER!!!
multi strand wire used on all cars can be almost completely broken except for one strand so down to less than a mm of connected wire and a muti meter connected on that circuit WILL show battery voltage,
12V or better.
Bur even though it showing Bat V on the meter it just will not carry enough current to do anything useful.
So Voltage tests are worse than useless,
And they're miss leading.
I'm going to quote Dan Sullivan he inventor of "Load Pro" leads.
there are only three things that can ever go wrong with a wiring system.
Seriously Look him up on You Tube,
even if you don't buy his lead set his lecture for want of a better word will help very much in your situation.
Now I own a set of his leads and wouldn't be without them now.
Prior to this I used the jumper wire/12v bulb system.
and this is what you need to be using.
Your meter is showing 12V now connect up a jumper wire/bulb holder and earth lead and see if the bulb lights,
It wont!
25W bulb,
divide that by 12 gives just over 2 amps,
and if there's extra resistance from say a corroded connector or a wire down to 1 strand you will have exactly the sit your in now.
But I'm thinking you have more than one fault.
the injectors are powered to battery voltage when key in on,
the ECU pulls the other wire to ground so triggering the injector.
So when you had your accidental injection fire the wire from the injector connector that goes to the ECU was shorted to ground/earth when you manipulated the harness.
There is no other explanation.
Trace that injector ground wire,
the one that doesn't read bat V back to the ECU,
there WILL be a short somewhere along it's length.
I've seen them as small as where ONE strand of wire is exposed from the insulation.
Or disconnect the ECU and the suspect injector,
connect the bulb across the injectors two terminals and use more jumper wires into the ECU connector plug to power up that circuit directly to the battery,
This is now an independent from the vehicle circuit,
only powering up 1 injector circuit.
bulb should light up,
then wiggle test until the bulb flickers/goes out,
and your short is where you've wiggled.
I restate,
Volts are a next to useless test,
Amps are what actually do any work.

Thanks so much, will rig up a bulb today and get cracking on it will update in the next couple of days.

FIXED !!!!!!!!!!

Fuse relay box under the bonnet next to the battery.

From Fuse 15 (30amp) it goes to a relay.

One of the relay legs solder had dried out, in an earlier post I had mentioned how my brother in law had re-soldered this. HOWEVER what we couldn't see was the actual PCB track wire had obviously broken and the circuit wasn't making to Fuse 15 which told the ECU to operate the coil and injector.

We bypassed the PCB track with a simple bit of wire soldered between the two points to provide a new 12v supply and hey presto the fires every time.

What a nightmare, car electrics are quite simply the devil's work !!!!! MANY MANY Thanks for all you help !!!!!