Ford Fiesta clutch wear!
Variant: 1.4 Zetec
Model Year: 2004
Categories:
Running Rough, Starting & Power Loss
I recently had my clutch replaced by a garage. 500 miles in, my clutch pedal seemed soft and the bite of the clutch has rose to the top of the pedal. There was roughly 1-2 cm of progressive grip before the clutch fully engages.
Took it back and they said a bubble in the pedal hydaulics was the problem, so they fixed it on warranty. The clutch has got worse still, but they say as its not slipping yet, its not a warranty job as is normal. My previous clucth never did this.
The clutch now no longer engages until right at the top of the pedal travel and i need to increase th revs more than usual to get a decent starting speed from the lights.
Does this sound normal for this car or are they avoiding doing the work again.
Took it back and they said a bubble in the pedal hydaulics was the problem, so they fixed it on warranty. The clutch has got worse still, but they say as its not slipping yet, its not a warranty job as is normal. My previous clucth never did this.
The clutch now no longer engages until right at the top of the pedal travel and i need to increase th revs more than usual to get a decent starting speed from the lights.
Does this sound normal for this car or are they avoiding doing the work again.
Posted: Mar 26, 2014 (10 years ago)
Park your car facing up hill or jack it up so the front is high ( please use axle stands).
Leave the brake fluid cap off over night, make sure the fluid level is right to the brim, put some paper towels around the outside of the resevoir.
The idea is that any air in the system wil come to the top.
You need to pump the clutch pedal 10 times right to the floor and right up then leave it till morning.
This should have cured it.
Obviously, if you have a leak from your concentric slave or master cylinder(at pedal) this will not work, but i am assuming that your garage will have checked.
Roger
Leave the brake fluid cap off over night, make sure the fluid level is right to the brim, put some paper towels around the outside of the resevoir.
The idea is that any air in the system wil come to the top.
You need to pump the clutch pedal 10 times right to the floor and right up then leave it till morning.
This should have cured it.
Obviously, if you have a leak from your concentric slave or master cylinder(at pedal) this will not work, but i am assuming that your garage will have checked.
Roger
Posted Mar 29, 2014 (10 years ago)
If "The clutch now no longer engages until right at the top of the pedal travel " it is nothing to do with air in the clutch .If clutch needing bled it would be the opposite .There must be a fault inside with the clutch assembly / installation .Get it back to them and get it fixed F.O.C . If you need to bleed a clutch , do it the correct way in 10 mins rather than the airy fairy saga of a method suggested that wont work .If that bad after 500 miles , you could end up at side of road with no drive shortly .
Posted Mar 29, 2014 (10 years ago)
Never heard of ANY engine " This engine was never designed to have a replacement headgasket fitted " that this applies to !!! Wet plugs dont dry out themselves in 30 secs , especially with a cold engine . The head problem was " cured " by the modified kit brought out years back .Was your head tested and skimmed prior to refitting? Only use the suggested additives as a last resort if not prepared to sort correctly as they may knacker / block your cooling system .Try changing engine coolant temp sensor , simple and cheap job .
Posted Mar 29, 2014 (10 years ago)
Solution 3 posted in wrong section / reply .Unfortunately this forum does not allow posters to correct mistakes , amend , edit replies like others do , so unable to change .
Posted Mar 29, 2014 (10 years ago)
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