Citroen Xsara glovebox lid will not open or unlock.

Hi Did,
I had a similar problem and solved it a follows:-
1. Remove the trim strip that runs across the glove box (silvery or carbon effect depending on model)
by gently prising it out with a broad bladed flat screwdriver.
2. Once this is off you can access the latch with your finger to open the glove box.
Hope this helps.
Best of luck.
Denis

More of a comment on Denis's solution: The trim on my glovebox is wood-effect brittle plastic. Have done as you suggest with several suitable tools but cannot shift the trim withot being in danger of it shattering so have given up until I can get to my nearest breakers depot for more advice! Will post again if successful. Thanks!

I had the same problem, but following Denis's advice
managed to remove trim strip very easily and open box.
Inside I found a loose flimsy moulded plastic 'piece' which is obviously part of the unlocking mechanism, but which is 'floating' at the moment and presumably causing the opening issues.
I can't seem to find any way to slot it back into position. Anyone got any ideas?? Thanks!

Here is the fix.........and it is the only one!

1) Carefully, pry off the plastic/pseudo wood strip from the exterior of the door that contains the handle and lock. Start at the non-lock extremity when doing this.

2) Detach the door from the glove box by removing the plastic pins that pass through the two rotating axes that join the two. You can push them out with a screw driver placed in the split end of each opposite to the slotted head.

3) Carefully separate the outer skin of the glove box door from the inner shell that forms the mass of the door. Separate the two parts ONLY around their fused rim by prying them apart with a flat head screw driver or similar. This will break apart the welded joints around the circumference but you will be able to glue them back together with ABS cement when the operation is complete. Don't try to separate the welds for the cup holders and other interior parts or you risk damaging the door. You just need to obtain enough flex at the top of the door to create working space to access the latch mechanism.

4) Cut two 7 cm long wooden battens to jam open the two interior faces of the door by placing them between the opposing corners.

5) If you haven't already done so, retrieve the plastic slider that you will have found floating around inside the door. On examination, you will think that nothing has broken, as the slider simply looks like it has come adrift. This is not the case: the illusion being caused by the break being so clean.

6) At the foot of the spring mechanism mounted on the inside of the rear wall of the door you will find a small ledge of plastic projecting from the right-hand side of the tip of the mechanism (on the side furthest from the lock). At the tip of the floating plastic slider that you retrieved you will find an equivalent small plastic ledge facing in the opposite direction (i.e., back on itself). This is where the break has occurred. The design is insanely fragile!

7) Now take a soldering iron and set to around 300 deg C. Grab a small strip of plastic from one of the joints that you broke apart in step 3). Melt some of this plastic onto the mating faces of the two ledges referred to above and join them. Make sure you have the two faces correctly aligned. Hold the slider in the correct position while the plastic solidifies. Then, add some more melted plastic to the top of the join for strength. Slide the hot tip of the soldering iron over the join to smooth.

8) Finally, for additional strength and to protect the plastic weld, take a small tie wrap and secure it around the tip of rotating mechanism and the plastic slider that you've now rejoined.

I would have posted photos of the above but haven't found a way to include images. If you can't follow the above, respond with your email and I'll send a couple of images to assist.