Citroen Saxo car accelerating and then cutting out

Car: Citroen Saxo
Model Year: 1997
Categories: Running Rough, Starting & Power Loss

1) the car starts ( it may take one or two or three chances to get the ignition to turn and start)

2) if my foot is not on the accelerator when either tthe car is in transist or im starting the car, the engine will cut out.

3) if the engine drops below 10 revs, the car shakes and the engine will cut out.

4) when the car does start and stays above 10 revs, the engine sounds fine.

5) the engines and oil warning lights come on just before the engine cuts out.

6) the car needs to remain above 10 revs, even when stationery, to keep the engine running.

7) if the car starts first time it will go to 10 revs straight away. But if my foot is not on the accelerator then straigt afterwards the engine will cut out after 30 seconds.

8) i can hear the car struggling to stay at 10 revs if my foot is not on the acceletator.

9) after a few times of starting the car, the engine will connect with the ignition and will run without my foot on the accelerator for about over a minute before cutting out.

10) the resistance felt when I try to accelerate has been there for a couple of weeks. If i try and go above 35mph the car struggles and if i try and quickly accererlate at a roundabout the car is slow and there is resistance from the accelerator.

11) when i try and accelerate the car will get to 20 revs and then suddenly make a revving sound before going to about 40 revs very quickly. I sound like a girl racer but even though the revs go up there is still resistance on the accelerator to go faster than 35-40 mph.

12) water comes into the car via the sunroof on the passenger side and goes only into the front and back passenger footwells.

13) In the past few weeks the idle valve, crank sensor motor and spark plugs have been replaced but the car is still not able to accelerate at a quick enough pace and still seems to be struggling when driving.

Please help!!!
Posted: Sep 8, 2014 (10 years ago)
Actually sounds like more than one fault.
as to the starting fault,
I assume when it get's to operating temperature it's fine,you didn't state,
if so then I'd suspect the coolant temperature sensor,
basically when an engine is cold it needs more fuel to run right,
sounds like your CTS is telling the car the engine is always hot,
so no choke if you like.
But it also sounds like your clutch is slipping.
It's going to need replaced as pretty soon it won't drive!
But these are guesses,it will still need tested to prove/disprove.
Posted Sep 9, 2014 (10 years ago)
Thank you for your help and advice 1/4 drive.

The temperature of the car seems fine when I try and drive the car, it doesn't go much above 1/2way between cold and hot on the radiator gage (I think that is right - sorry if it's not I'm quite new to all this).

Even when the car over accelerates, the temperature doesn't go to high which I am hoping is a good thing.

I work as a carer and so I can't afford garage bills so my Dad ( a retired mechanic) and I are trying to solve the problems on his driveway but we don't have all the gear a garage would have like computerised equipment.

I don't mean to be sound stupid, but how would I know if the clutch is slipping and how would I go around replacing it?

Could it be the fuel pump?

I really appreciate the help- thank you.
Posted Sep 9, 2014 (10 years ago)
Hi, me again!

Well I have just checked with my Dad and he said the coolant temperature sensor has been replaced within the last two years when the head gasket on the car went.

I am getting really stuck about what's going on with my car so I am grateful for any help anyone has. Thank you
Posted Sep 9, 2014 (10 years ago)
If your dad is a retired mechanic he should be able to tell if clutch slipping with a short road test or even by applying brake and taking up drive ? You got to watch throwing parts needlessly on a car of that year and value , becomes uneconomic .
Posted Sep 9, 2014 (10 years ago)

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